Where in the World is Peggy Peg? Durmitor National Park

Where in the World is Peggy Peg? Durmitor National Park - Montenegro

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Travel Blog: Adventure in Montenegro – Experiencing the Majestic Solitude of the Tara Canyon

The sun slowly emerges from behind the vast face of rock that forms one side of the imperious canyon that we find ourselves in. With it comes a welcome warmth, the hitherto frigid morning air gradually rising in temperature as the sun ascends ever higher towards what will be its eventual zenith in the brilliant blue sky. 

From below comes the perpetual roll and rumble of the river, whose waters have, over countless years, carved out Tara Canyon, Europe’s deepest at over 1300 metres in some places. With the emerging sun comes signs of life on our campsite, built over two levels on what land there is to be found here at the bottom of the canyon, as soft chatter and the alluring aroma of freshly brewed coffee begins to fill the air. 

We are in Montenegro, although only just as here the river marks the border with neighbouring Bosnia & Herzegovina, on the edge of Durmitor National Park, a region whose natural beauty is quick to win not just my heart, but those of my travelling companions too. The most impressive views of the canyon are from above, where one can see the turquoise waters of the river snaking their way through a green oasis of thickly wooded precipitous cliffs, home to rare, primaeval black pine forests. 

The beauty of the landscape is reason enough to venture to this remote corner of a country that is, by modern standards, relatively undeveloped, with great swathes of land as nature intended them to be. Although, as we will discover with some delight in the coming days, there is far more to Durmitor National Park than its imperious canyon. But for now, the focus is on the river, where we will spend the morning rafting. 

At this time of year, it’s mid-September, the rapids are not particularly violent, graded as level two plus, and so over the course of the fourteen kilometres, there are periods where we can relax, paddle gently and admire the canyon from a different perspective. Autumn’s gentle hand has already begun to touch the landscape, little pockets of rusty brown shrubs and trees with teardrop leaves the colour of caramel contrast with the verdant greens of the forest we float alongside. 

‘All paddle’ comes the urgent command from Jacko, our vigilant guide. Ahead, the river froths and erupts in plumes of white, a thunderous roar filling the air. We set to our task, carrying the raft quickly towards the start of the rapids before we are swept into them, tossed this way and that. The front of the raft rises up, the horizon suddenly filled with the calm blue of the sky before slamming back down again, cold water showering those sat at the front, much to the delight of those further back. 

The great contrast of Durmitor comes the following day as we head up from the canyon and take the thin ribbon of road that meanders through the heart of the mountains. The road gradually rises, picking its way up and through great slabs of rock long since jettisoned from the mountains that tower over us on either side, until, without warning, it arrives at a point where we are forced to stop. Not because the road is blocked, but because the sheer scale and brilliance of the mountains requires it of us. 

We stand lost in reverence for the landscape we find ourselves in, surrounded by mountains that appear to have violently wrestled themselves free from the depths of earth, jutting high into the sky. We will travel no further, instead opting to wild camp in the bosom of the mountains, the spell of Durmitor well and truly cast upon us. Night brings yet more magic, an ink-black sky carpeted with stars, wisps of the Milky Way and the crackle of our campfire providing the perfect end to a day few will ever forget.

Where in the World:
Montenegro’s Durmitor National Park is a place of staggering beauty, and one of our favourite places from all of our travels. It is a veritable paradise for nature lovers and adventure seekers, with places such as the breathtaking Tara River Canyon, the deepest in Europe, and stunning landscapes of rugged peaks, glacial lakes, and dense forests.

How to Get There: 
If you’re travelling from within Montenegro, then it’s easiest to get to the mountain town of Žabljak from the south via a combination of the P11, M6 and P5. From here, you can access all parts of Durmitor National Park with relative ease. If you arrive from Bosnia & Herzegovina via Granični Prijelaz Hum, then follow the E762 once over the border until a few kilometres before Pluzine, where you take a left and follow the signs over the mountain for Žabljak. 

Where to Stay: 
Durmitor National Park is a wild camping heaven, with so many amazing spots to pick from. However, if you’re looking for a campsite that has good facilities and location, look no further than Camp Ivan Do on the outskirts of Žabljak. 

Used Peggy Pegs:
The ground was dry and hard grassland – perfect for our Fix&Go Anchor Plates 2.0, which we securely fastened using a mix of hit-in Screw-out Peg hardcore Peggy and the 16cm Screw-in Peg&Stop.
The TieStraps 2.0 were secured with the 20cm Peg&Stop Screw-in pegs. All included in the Ultimate Awning Bundle – ideal for awnings and demanding conditions.

Key Facts

Discover Durmitor National Park – Montenegro’s Natural Paradise

Located in northern Montenegro, right on the border with Bosnia & Herzegovina, the Durmitor National Park is a true paradise for nature lovers and adventurers. With its rugged peaks, deep canyons, crystal-clear glacial lakes, and dense forests, the park offers spectacular landscapes in absolute seclusion. Europe’s deepest canyon – the Tara Canyon – turquoise rivers, ancient black pine forests, and the imposing Durmitor mountain range create a dramatic backdrop for unforgettable experiences in nature.

Why Visit Durmitor National Park?

Durmitor National Park excites with a mix of adventure and natural beauty: hiking along rugged peaks, rafting on the Tara River, wild camping under a starlit sky, and exploring untouched landscapes. The Tara Canyon is a true highlight for both adventurers and nature enthusiasts. Whether you seek peace, breathtaking views, or outdoor challenges – Durmitor has something for everyone.

Getting There

From within Montenegro, the mountain town of Žabljak is most easily reached via roads P11, M6, and P5.
From Bosnia & Herzegovina, cross the Hum border and follow the E762 until just before Plužine, then turn left and follow the signs over the mountains to Žabljak. From here, all areas of Durmitor National Park are easily accessible.

Where to Stay

Durmitor is a true paradise for wild campers, with countless beautiful spots to choose from. For those who prefer comfort, Camp Ivan Do on the outskirts of Žabljak offers excellent facilities and a great location.

Used Peggy Pegs

The ground at our campsite was dry and firm – ideal for our Fix&Go Anchor Plates 2.0 secured with hit-in Screw-out Peg hardcore Peggy and the 16cm Screw-in Peg&Stop. For the TieStraps 2.0, we used the 20cm Peg&Stop Screw-in pegs. Everything included in the Ultimate Awning Bundle – perfect for awnings and demanding conditions in the Durmitor National Park.

Activities & Adventures

• Rafting on the Tara River: Gentle to moderate rapids (Class II+) provide the perfect mix of adrenaline and relaxation.

• Hiking & Mountain Tours: Breathtaking views over rugged peaks and deep canyons.

• Wild Camping: Sleep under a star-filled sky, surrounded by untouched wilderness.

• Nature Spotting: Ancient black pine forests, crystal-clear rivers, and sparkling glacial lakes.

Insider Tip

For the best views of the Tara Canyon, head to the higher points above the river. Early in the morning, the light is wonderful, and the canyon remains perfectly tranquil.

Conclusion

Durmitor National Park is an unforgettable destination for adventure, pure nature, and unique outdoor experiences. The Tara Canyon, with its rugged peaks, crystal-clear lakes, and dense forests, makes the park a true highlight of any trip to Montenegro.

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Marcus is a husband, a father, an adventure athlete, and an award-winning writer, who travels the world in their Bailey of Bristol motorhome with his wife, Kim, and their two kids.

If you have any questions about their life on the road or simply want to follow their travels more closely, you can contact Marcus and Kim over on Instagram through @marcusleachglobal and @our.roaming.odyssey